Hondata

I went ahead and ordered a KTuned Ram air 3.5” intake. Once it’s installed, I will upload the ram air base tune. Maybe do a little Fuel tuning so it’s safe. I think I’m going to take it to a tuner in Alabama that’s about a 3hr drive from me. I might try and find a dyno tuner closer to me, but this ...

i will upload a different tune and try and get some shorter data logs so you can view the info. I've seen tuners zero out the knock retard tables to bypass the knock control. I want to try that but still want some protection incase i do have actual knock. From the research I've done what I'm ...

I'm running a speedzone performance 3" cts dp. i only went cts as it was a cheaper option i found online and wanted to give it a shot. Paired with the Rev 9 Flow maxx 3" cat back exhaust. I do feel the deep rumble from my exhaust under certain loads and rpm. It feels like bass vibrations from a ...

Am i safe fundamentally deactivating knock control, having some phantom knock due to my ... down pipe causing residual noise.

Can you include the tune file as well. I’ve been doing the same to my 9th gen maybe I can help some, still new to this stuff though.

I’ve been playing around with the MAF tune base calibration file. It’s pretty good. I’ve had to make some adjustments to the MAF calibration, but so far so good. Not running lean. Mostly rich. I want to play around with the IGN timing tables, as far as I can tell they are pretty close to stock with ...

After quite a few revisions and many logs later i believe this will be my final MAF tune file. the log i took was too long to attach to this post so i will need to take a few short logs, which i will be doing tomorrow. My current issue is that the car is pulling timing and retarding up to 10 degrees ...

So, I haven’t enabled MAP tuning. I have instead focused on tuning my MAF calibration, since I’m still fully stock other than my exhaust. It’s been fun learning and. Making adjustments to the MAF calibration table. Almost have it dialed in to +\- 1%. Once I know that is dialed in I want to clean up ...

When tuning fuel, do I start with the 0 degree timing and then move to the next degree mark? Or do you leave 0 degree alone? Going to be running my modified calibration when I get home and begin tuning that file. It’s the one attached to the post prior. Also would 0 degree mostly be my idle and decal?

Received my flash pro today and went ahead and used the US CIVIC SI 2012-2014, Hondata Reflash base calibration from the drop down menu. The "first data log" is from the base tune. The other data log is also from the base tune. I decided to tweak the base tune based off a few parameter changes ...