Hondata

I'm going to reply to each of these for the record...


1. Some air/fuel monitor devices upset the o2 sensor signal to the ECU. If the o2 sensor is a old, or the meter is not a good design, the impedance of the meter pulls the voltage down and the car will run rich.


The o2 sensor was repleced ...

Well...

We tried a bunch of stuff for like 4 hours on the road, using the Tech-edge WB and the emulator.

Nothing worked.

We tried lean (~15:1) then rich (~12:1). I should point out we were running right off the MAP, that is open loop, and we could repeat the problem consistantly over and over ...

Of what? There are like, at least a couple hundred combinations... plus you'd need to know ALL of the mods.. so it really doesn't help too much. Plus, would you want someone saying "this dude's chip blew my engine!", I think not. If you want specific questions answered....

krazy wrote:heres my set up:
hondata s200B, b18c1, maxrev turbo kit, 550ccs, boosting only .3 bar max.

this is yet to be tuned, i only got the basemap last week

I'd say plugs fouled... what did you find?

i just blew up my gsr motor!

Uh, congradulations?

is a b-20b with a mildly ported gsr head and the same supercharger kit a good setup up?

For what? Drag racing? no. Auto-x... mabye. Street? sure, until 70mph or so...

does any one know what the compression ratio is on a b20-b and gsr head ...

For those of you looking for an answer, we haven't found one yet...

About the A/F ratio onthe data logs, it is from the STOCK sensor, you know, like when the A/F light show goes back and fourth? There is no way to know exactly what the A/F is reading, as I sid befor, it's too quick for the wideband ...

I think that the A.P.S is in the ecu. can this easily be swapped with another from a different p28?

Yes it is in the ECU, and no, it can't

I have another ecu on hand that works, but for some reason the car won't start after I cntrl w. It putters for a bit then dies. The new ecu starts the car ...

Possible causes....

1. CAMs if it is not stock.
2. VTEC POINT
3. IAB opening RPM
4. Fuel too rich
5 FUel too lean

I really think it is more of a tuning issue. It would be great of you send your datalogs.

OK, I was the one tuning the car... this problem is very strange. It seems like the tip in ...

To correct the "target idle" problem... Doug (from Hondata) sent me a rom that worked great! The idle stays at 800 PM with no problems. COOL! Now if I could just figure out my other problems....

Thanks Doug!

Sean

BTW- if anyone wants it to try, just e-mail me, or Doug, I guess...

H269 is the JDM B18C which is probably closer than the USDM P72.

I would use the H245 (JDM B16A) map and adjust it for change in displacement using the calc feature and go.

Sean

turn which screw?? the idle screw on the TB??


Uh, yes. There is only one screw to turn, it closes the bypass air around the IAC valve. Turn it in (clockwise) to decrease the airflow. You should be able to get the car to BARELY idle at like 400 rpm with the IAC unplugged. This is the correct ...

Ahh.. well I'm back. I booted the B18C1 block I had (it was evil) in favor of a B20! Did the old B20 VTEC thang and am ready to rock...

I am still getting the "target idle" of 620-669 RPM after warm-up. Only now the car runs MUCH smoother with little or no bouncing. I must have had a compression ...

pills_PMD wrote:14.7:1 is what is considered to be stoich. That may be a little rich though.

This is only for a part throttle. At idle 15:1 to 15:5:1 is OK. For maximum power under full throttle, 13.0:1 to 13.5:1 will provide best power, with a loss in fuel economy. Seen it on the dyno.

Sean

Haven't tuned mine yet. Send me an e-mail and I'll give you something to start with....

Sean

1. You need coolant flowing through the IAC valve for it to work properly
2. ANY vacuum source not connected will cause a bouncing idle
3. It sounds like not all the sensors are connected? A P72 sould have no idle probelms
4. check the IAC valve functionality by unplugging it during idle. If the ...