Hondata

Okay I cleaned up all the ground connections and still my air fuel and MAP readings seem way off. Check out this datalog of startup and you'll see what I am referring to. I'm stumped.

Looking at my datalog again this morning. It seems like something is wrong with the electrical signals from the O2 sensor. What do you think? Surely the motor was not running at 28:1 air fuel?

I started the car for the first time and let it idle. It seems to be running lean and I have some air still in the coolant system (I have the bleeder funnel attached). Attached is the datalog of that. Other than the higher than usual coolant temps and lean condition, she did great! No smoke in the ...

Also I ended up deleting the piston oil squirters since the rods wouldn't clear them. These Nippon pistons are cast, not forged, but they should be slightly stronger than stock. I also still have laying around the stock 62mm throttle body if it makes it easier to get running before swapping the ...

If i could get my part throttle tuned, as I will have to put at least 3000 miles on the motor before it can safely go full throttle, that would be amazing

Hello.

I need help getting my new engine build running smoothly on the street. The setup is as follows:

K24a4 w oil squirters and oil cooler added,
K20z3 cylinder head
Drag Cartel Drop in cams
~11.2:1 compression
Plm Header
Rbc manifold port matched
Ktuned 72mm throttle body
3in straight through ...

The knock count issue ended up being bad valve lash, and the motor was also improperly timed. I fixed those issues and was good until I discovered a hairline crack in the block.

Now I have replaced the k20 w a k24a4 w piston oil squirters and oil cooler added. The specs are as follows:

K24a4 block ...

Also, could a coilpack be going bad without tripping a code? I'm thinking since one had to be replaced recently, that the others may not be far behind. I ask this because while I suspect that the difference in engine note could be the combination of no bumper + timing retard, I want to make sure it ...

Sounds good. Question, if the timing chain somehow was off, would the ecu throw a code?

Sweet, let's do it. Also I will recheck my valve lash again in the new year, because I don't believe it should be this noisy.

The timing gears were never removed from the cams, and the chain marks were aligned before torquing it down, so I imagine the motor is still in time. The front bumper is still off so maybe I'm just hearing more induction noise.

I think we should try lowering the knock sensitivity, then reevaluating ...

I put the same plugs as before in, the ngks. O2 is in, and the short term calculations have returned. The "knock" is still present. I'd like to keep the ktuned sensor in. According to ktuned it is supposed to read exactly the same as OE, though it does have a metal housing as opposed to the stock's ...

Okay, I'll try to pick up the new o2 tomorrow. Side note, since I adjusted the valve clearance, the motor ticks louder. I was sure to double check my feeler gauges, but I did have a slight bias towards the loose side. I wonder if that is affecting the knock sensor. The car feels fine driving tbh, so ...

So I recently blew a headgasket (I dont think it was related to the tune), and since I had the motor out I went ahead and replaced the map sensor, plugs, timing chain, and installed a hondata intake manifold gasket, as well as a k-tuned knock sensor on the car. Now, I'm registering knock on my first ...

Outstanding.

Okay, I see now that's how the fuel trims should look, thank you. I've gotten myself another project build I'm going to tune myself using what I've learned from you and what I see in the changes you made from each log and revision. Regarding the A/F's, I may have been hyperbolic when I ...