Hondata

I ran a dedicated wire from the battery to the conversion harness to power the ecu rather than through the oem fuse box and the voltage is much more stable in kmanager but it still never seems to go above 13.5 despite the wire itself providing full voltage and the ecu plugs reading full voltage as ...

Just did some more testing and I think my battery must have just been low from sitting. I now get a 14.10 v reading from the alt after charging the battery.

Fan off or on made very little difference like .001-.005 difference.
battery + to alt 0.37v
battery + to ecu 0.27v
battery + to inj 1/2 0.26v

Forgot to post my files.

I am having a similar issue to a previous user at this link https://www.hondata.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23269 Where his voltage shown on kmanager is not the same as the voltage as what is on a voltmeter. Testing from the positive battery post to the ecu show a steady voltage whereas the voltage ...

Yeah it seems this feature isnt working as intended, or described at the least. I wonder if Hondata can chime in and tell us if maybe we are understanding what it does incorrectly.

So i can confirm that enabling the Disable Fuel Overrun Cutoff checkbox caused my STFT to hit -20% plus and run extremely rich, like 10:1 after every pull. It would clear up after about 5-10 seconds and AF would stabilize. When I unchecked the box the issue stopped happening and runs as expected ...

That is uncanny. I was just about to post a log and kal because I am having this exact issue. At first I was thinking "wow this is an old thread why reply" lol. I put a check in that box yesterday and thats when this issue started. It was unchecked before and I was noticing a bit of roughness ...

I have sent the feedback. I just confirmed the issue is not present in the 4.5.6 version of kmanager.

When exporting datalogs to csv my RPMs are all 0. Viewing the datalog in KManager shows RPMs and everything looks normal. The car drives fine.

Is it normal for the ac fan to always be on? Even when driving it is on. I also see the fanc sensor on even when driving with temps below 204.

edit: This is with the ac running.

That's good news! Currently I need to put at least 300 miles to break in the clutch at under 4k rpm I believe. After that I plan to have it dyno tuned. Although I'm open to an etune.

Im sorry my intention is not to bump this post I just cant seem to upload the correct datalog.

Scratch that first datalog Ed, Here is an actual driving log. That first one I had P/S issues and couldnt really drive it normally.

Hey Ed, hopefully your still around. I since had to work several things out before getting it out on the road but I was finally able to. Here is my calibration and a datalog. I appreciate any assistance.

Edit: I only have the first half of the exhaust connected with the wideband in it so I am not ...

The B11 output is a hardware output from the ECU. KPro firmware does not affect it.

I would start by finding out why the battery voltage is fluctuating so much. If there is a ground difference between the ECU and dash the VSS signal is not going to work.

Also the TPS is stuck at 50% but I do not ...