Hondata

faulty wiring, defective injectorr, or faulty injector wiring harness, and last but not least, faulty sensor.

/vague

when plugging in the 3barm ap sensor, do you also change your ECU to match the new map sensor?


It may be intermittent because in cold starts it doesn't really matter what the MAP sensor is reading, but in warm starts its a problem.


However, make sure that your ecu was burned to support 3bar ...

http://www.hondata.com/images/asteroids.gif

This is an easter egg.

what would be funny is that someone finds out this easter egg while tuning the car and forgets themselves.

that's a mighty fun game.. im going to go crazy and find it on my computer now.

howmany easter eggs are there? give us ...

i finally got the cell. guess there is no fix yet... :( but i really don't think it should cause any problems. the logs that i have recorded appear fine with/without the cel. must be a glitch. it doesn't cause me any problems other than a big yello indicator light in my face.

but i guess I jinxed ...

so far i have not had this code. have you updated your rom with the new software?

I am at version 3.5.4 I was considering upgrading to 3.5.5 to remove some minor hesistation issues. I highly doubt though that it will fix this problem.

I think even though running open loop, the ECU is still ...

turning the key to off and then back on does reset the CEL.

I think it has to do with the fact that the O2 sensor isn't connected. I will try that tomorrow.

Hi,

Whenever I slow my car down by letting off the accelerator for more than 5 seconds, the CEL pops on. I check the code and it says its the Primary O2 sensor.

The Hondata is running in open loop with a disconnected primary o2 sensor. This problem happens at any speed ant any gear and it is ...

Yeah I read that man, I know it doesn't come with the launch control, I was just living in a dream world :)

Abotu teh dynos with Widebands.... My car is an OBD1... Only 1 O2 bung... how could I get this tuned using wideband then?

most dyno shops will offer a tialpipe o2 option.

I've done some ...

setup:

rc 550cc injectors
resistor box
stock fuel rail
walbro 255hp pump
fpr set to 50psi @ 1 bar
purge valve disconnected
aem wbo2 w/methods mod



problem:

i've been tuning my car and for some reason everything above 600mb is lean and have to add quite of bit just to get it on the rich side ...

i am going to push the envelope of my greddy turbo, that's the reason why i hve 880cc injectors.

plus these 880cc injectors were cheaper than RC 550cc or any other company I could find.. they are brand new siemens injectors, so I am quite happy with them, and still idle like a champ (850 idle Rpm ...

very very nice!!!

what sort of gas mileage are you seeing?

I get about 19 to 20 mpg with just 271whp/236wtq greddy turbo 880cc injectors.

jbbauer wrote:BUMP

i think the tuning lecture is long gone..

it would ave been nice.. but a basemap anyone could pretty much hook you up with that has the romeditor.

I have a Dell laptop that I use for tuning (an old 400 MHz celeron Latitude). I can reproduce a similar problem if I connect the serial cable to the laptop before the car is actually started and running. The solution for me is to disconnect the cable from the laptop, start the car, then reconnect ...

you can try that..

What i did for a friend whos motor kept dying on idle after a rebuild was fixed his IAT duty cycle and took out fuel from the idle portion.

You can try to change the IDLE screw, but I suggest you mark where it was originally only because you will want the Hondata to mess with ...

a bin file is a binary file that is written to the EEPROM (the chip of your computer).

When a tuner is tuning your car, they usually will save a file after they are complete as a BIN file and then program your ECU with that file.

There has to be someone in your area with the romeditor and Pocket ...