Hondata

The AFR you are talking about is consistent with the stock one, it is not Lean for the conditions described. 11 psi and 140%Airc can barely be called load for this engine.

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You really have nothing to worry about. There ...

First, try to uncheck "Increase air charge limit from 250" mod if you don't need this

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Another thing you can do is to tune the Turbo max air charge (IAT) table.

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Based on your log I don't think the Aircharge value ...

I'm glad you found the problem. All the best!

It looks like a bosst leak for me.

Great news, but I think I found two little bugs on my EU FK8 (2019)

1. Yesterday I made some reflashes with Hondata with Pops & Bangs enabled. After one of them, car made ignition retard on Iddle, immediately after start, without any throttle input. I stopped the engine, reflashed again and the car ...

Please upload some logs. What basemap have you tried?

First time you need to identify and fix the boost leak issue. Start with intercooler coupling, intercooler o-rings, throttle body coupling.
After that you have to make another log.

It looks like you have a boost leak. Car doesn't make targeted BP and your fuel trims are way off and car runs too rich. From the datalog I assume it's a turbo Type R with K20C1 engine.

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I'm not an expert, I still learning but I can try to help.

Attached log doesn't seems to match attached calibration. Based on extremely low load I can asume that this was a dyno pull.

- I can see that BP matches BP CMD only at 6000rpm so you can have a small boost leak.
- I see some bad AF ...

I measured on the dyno cars that exceeded the torque request values by more than 40Nm, so those limits can be easily exceeded in reality.

Yes, better MPG is one of the advantages of a quality reflash.

It looks more like a burst knock, I don't think there is any real knock there but I'm waiting for another opinion.

I'm curious to see "Knock retard step" table from your calibration and another log with a 3500-6500 rpm pull.

It was a cold start. Based on engine and ambient temp I say it was steam, not smoke. There could have been smoke if wd40 or another penetrant oil were used during disassembly/reinstallation. Does it still "smoke" when the engine is hot?

Based on log you need some adjustements on MAF scale.

You can use Hondata 93 calibration with Mishimoto Intake selected but it is better to custom tune the MAF scale.

Exhaust, BOV and Inlet Pipe doesn't need a tune and also you won't find any mods or calibration for them.

So basicaly you want to blow your engine. You should avoid antilag if you don't have a built and stronger engine.

Hondata I think Gotslicks was referring to this helper https://hondata.com/help/tractioncontrol/index.html?pid_control.htm

Does anyone have a log with traction control working and PID activated?

From what I understand, we can use it as a PD controller. I have experience with PID controllers from ...