Hondata

Gear based duty cycle



This setting will output a duty cycle based on the boost by rpm & gear table. The pressure vs duty cycle table is not used with this setting.

So it does not ignore that setting? Why even have it then? Seems redundant.

There is an option to use a pressure vs duty cycle setting and gear based duty cycle(which ignores the pressure vs duty cycle). Any reason one would use pressure vs duty cycle over gear based? If I want 15 psi what do I care what the solenoid duty cycle is at to acheive that? I know it's nowhere ...

Apparently the resistors resist something. Cut those bad boys out and it was as simple as it gets.

I'm going to do it anyways. I was just hoping to hear this was a symptom of those resistors doing something funny :)

I don't fully know what these 2 resistors do. But they are still in place in this ECU. Max lean is reading about 4.5v and max rich is reading 1.31v. It goes to 1.31 volts at about 11.7:1 afr and stays there til the gauge is buried. Does this sound like the culprit? If they are adding or pulling ...

I'll try what hondata said. It is on windows vista. ugh lol

Spunkster, yeah I've tried a bunch of different things. But yes I always save my changes. It's not just when I shut the laptop off it happens when I just close the program.

Thanks

I asked a few months ago, maybe someone will see this and tell me what the heck I'm missing....
Every time I start up the laptop to go tune I have to put all my settings back in. Goes back to default IE Options-settings-af defaults to lamda, vacuum- millibar, unit base absolute, I want AFR, " vacuum ...

The installation was done correctly from what I saw. Not saying that the stereo is the best place to take 12 volts from but it shouldn't(operative word) be an issue. Like I said I'll probably have to do some voltage testing on both sides of the gauge to make sure it matches. Or better yet make him ...

It's powered from the stereo and it's grounded to the body of the car. I'll double check them. But it looks like I may have to do some voltage testing on both sides of the gauge to make sure the input and output match.

Spunkster wrote:Where did you ground the gauge? Where did you get 12 volts?....etc.

I'll find out real quick. Thanks for your help.

Everything is connected like stock. The UEGO is connected through the ELD pinout. Posting a log and calibratipon won't show you that ECU AFR and actual AFR don't match. Not to mention I don't have a log or the cal, it's all on his laptop. I'll probably get back to the car in a few days and get it ...

I've been tuning my frieds turbo gsr and he's using an AEM UEGO. Well when I first tuned it a few months ago I had to play with the offset forever to make it right. Maybe there is an easier way to set it up but I don't know what it is. Let me know if there is lol Anyways I got it damn close and ...

Well since I had issues before and everything is supposed to 100% correct. I want to make sure I'm doing step by step everything as it's suppossed to be.

I would like this defined a little better.

4. Create a new calibration from File->New, adjusted only for injector size.

The ecu is a p28 ...

It's been sent back to have it all checked out.
Which pins needed to be fixed? Who socketed the ECU? What comes up on the screen when you load a calibration and try to upload it? If I was a computer repair man I would have done it myself. I have no clue what needed to be fixed.

I can load a ...