Hondata

I did some datalogging today.

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l152/dgrymin/datalog1speedscaled.png
Scaled the speedometer input to account for the different tire size between the Civic and RSX. I'm guessing the speedometer tends to be off at higher speeds anyways though... http://smiliesftw.com ...

Talked to Rywire, he said it sounded like it was the wrong harness. He sent me a new one and I sent the old one back. Flipped the key to on, fuel pump comes right on.

The buzzing is coming from the vehicle main relay.

If I wanted to use the wiring diagram from the tech section on the main Hondata site, would I use two different relays rather than the vehicle main relay?

Right now the ECU main relay output is going to the oxygen sensor, though I am not sure ...

Checked out the swap wiring harness.

Traced for continuity from the main relay plug to the under dash connector (this is on a 1998 Civic DX). Everything looked ok except for Pin 3 on the main relay.
It goes to the DLC connector once its on the swap harness. http://smiliesftw.com/x/127fs4573872 ...

Yeah car ran fine before with a turbo D16 setup (on S300).

The swap harness is from Rywire.

I have all the grounds listed on the Hondata info page. The ground for the battery is also good.

When I was messing around with it over the weekend it kicked the fuel pump on once which threw me off.

I ...

I'm going to rewire the car with the battery back up in the front tomorrow and see what happens.

Also found out that I need a new injector o-ring...

Just checked the voltage at the fuse box with a voltmeter. Without the battery charger hooked up it was ~12.5V with the key in the on position.

When the charger was hooked up it was ~17V with the key in the on position.

Even though you guys (Hondata) recommended not doing it, I saw that people on K20a.org had relocated their batteries to the trunk. I ran 1 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery and 4 gauge from the starter to the battery.

When I turn the key to the 'on' position there is a buzzing coming ...

Are there any issues with running a P28 with the S300? From what I have seen there are just fewer outputs, but would a calibration for the P72 (I think?) ECU work fine in the P28?

Awesome, thanks.

Is there a difference between the voltage readings on the OBD1 and OBD2 IAT sensors, or can they be swapped with no issues?

Kind of bringing this back up from the dead, but I didn't see a purpose in starting a new thread. As was stated by sohc_mshue, the D16Y8s have I think about 4? less timing to start off with just for base timing. Does anybody have a good basemap with similar timing values? I'm going to be tuning the ...

Is there a way to display the IAT value in voltage instead of a temperature value?

I'm looking in the S-manage software and the highest IAT temp it appears as if it will correct for are 100 degrees Farenheit. Is it possible to edit anything in the S300 to change for higher IAT values, or is this as high as the stock sensor reads?

Also one other question, when you're on the dyno ...

It would be possible to run the different IAT sensor and get it to adjust the fuel though, correct? The intake temp values just wouldn't be correct.

Any reason you're not looking into this? I don't trust the stock Honda sensor that pushes into the tubing with a grommet on a boosted car.