Hondata

Thanks for the Overrun Fuel Cutoff (MAP) table. I have always had a problem with extremely low throttle inputs causing the DFCO to activate prematurely. After a slight adjustment I no longer have the issue. That and the other improvements made me very happy. :)

Alli wrote:I would really like a "learning" ability with the duty cycle vs pressure in the boost control section

I second this! I think it would be fun to program too.

tinkerbell wrote:

Spunkster wrote:D14 does not have the full range of voltage needed for a 0-5 volt input.

18 gauge wire is sufficient at the thermostat housing.

cool, thanks for confirming. :)

I was about to ask this same question in a new topic. Glad I checked first.

OBD2 Car/engine harness?

Are injectors low impedence? Had to wire up resistor box?

If answer to all of those is yes, then check the wiring to the resistor box.

I had some issues with my IAC when I had an open in the resistor box circuit. Just an idea to try...

hiperformance wrote:so is there any advantage that a p72 has over a p28? spunkster feel free to chime in with a complete answer.

thanks.

P72 has Knock Board & (stock wire) IAB control over P28.

Does a P28 from Hondata have circuitry for controlling IAB?

Aww man I really like these. Is there no way to download and give them a try?

I would like to see some nifty boost control code. Show that "fuzzy logic" is not dead...lol

Perhaps two checkboxes added to the Boost Control Tab

_ Boost Spikes
_ Boost Falls Off


When "Boost Spikes" is checked, once the activation pressure is reached, the PWM output will climb gradually to the ...

I'm having a hard time understanding what you are trying to do. The PWM output will start outputting to the solenoid at the activation pressure, no matter what the RPM are. So if you are getting 8psi by 4600RPM, then the you will see 30% on the PWM data. That is good thing.

I don't know whay you ...

I got it all working now. I didn't like my GReddy solenoid, so I purchased a Hondata one locally. It is much more predictable and reliable than the Greddy one. The Greddy valve even stuck open a few times. Now I couldn't be happier. Thank you both for your help. I will take the advice and use 12v ...

Most people just use their experience tho know when the values are going to be non-useful, but you can adjust some settings in Options | Settings... | Sensor Overlay tab.

The one you will be most interested in is Throttle. Set the minimum to something like 2% and it won't record overlay information ...

Yup, I saw that now. :)

My next step is to connect the solenoid up in my passenger seat and make sure I can hear it opening. I am using one of the 12v sources into the ECU for my switched 12v. Any problem with doing that?

Thanks. I was pointed in the wrong direction. I thought it stood for Boost Control. I will troubleshoot the hardware side of the output now.

No problem. Thanks for trying to help.

I think it would help me troubleshoot if I knew what caused the "BstC" to show "On." I'm assuming it becomes active whenever boost control is enabled and MAP is above the activation pressure. I have fixed duty cycle set at 20% for right now and activation ...

I'm OBD2A though.

OBD1 Input/Output OBD2A OBD2B
B5 - ACS C5 A27
B8 - PSP C16 A26
D4 - SCS C7 A10
D2 - BKSW D5 A32
D6 - VTP C15 C10
D10 - ELD D16 A30
D12 - EGRL D9 C6
A11 - Boost Control A7 B7

That "BstC" entry in the sensors windows... Should that be showing "On" even if the solenoid is ...