Hondata

The clutch is not releasing when you push the pedal, so the trans has load on it as soon as you start the engine.

If this is a cable opperated clutch: then the cable is improperly adjusted, EZ fix.

If it is a hydrualic clutch: then there could be air in the clutch hydrualic line as Dax says, if ...

With the engine running and warm, and the throttle closed, place your finger over the idle bypass passage just before the throttle plate. If blocking the passage with your finger makes the idle return to normal then the problem is your idle control/fast idle valve.

You're right, this ecu cannot run an H22 up to its potental it will run it lean

Check for a build-up of carbon in the intake/throttle body. some is normal, but an extreme amount of soft carbon in the intake can cause these problems

The K-series in very stong, and is resistance to all kinds of abuse except for over-reving by downshifting while close to redline

I am considering building a performance V6 engine for an accord (don't laugh) I am thinking a 3.5 block and heads from a 3.2 type s.
Has anyone else out there every even thought about a V6? Does anyone have a reason why it wouldn't work (other than it is hard to find parts) I think a v6 could be ...

But as modify the engine the intake/exhaust systems will need to have this better flow. If you want to seriously increase power consider an engine swap

The SI intake/throttle body probably is a slightly bigger diameter. Like the cold air intake and exhaust system, bigger diameter means less resistance to air flow, so the engine will breathe easier. Its safe to say though, that you didn't feel much increase in power with any of these mods, this is ...

The post-cat O2 sensor should have about the same average reading as the primery sener, however the second sensor should be a lot more stable, staying closer to .45volts, with slower shallow cures

Also the rev limiter is suposed to be lower rpm with the car stopped

It sound like it is running rich