Hondata

If the original setup is peak & hold with a resistor box, do you need to take out the resistor box when switching to high impedance injectors?

The knock sensor itself is actually the same as the GSR (same part number), but the sensitivity might be different on the knock board inside the ECU. Since we can't adjust the knock board, there's probably not much we can do but to disable it.

I've been searching for another option to detect knocks ...

Yes, I have tried reducing the timing by 2 degrees from column 6 to 10 ( both low and high cam tables) with the same result (still detecting knocks). I then reduced the timing by 5 degrees, and later by 10 degrees with the same result. Not only that, it also registers knocks when I slightly blip the ...

Just a follow up that after switching back to the narrowband O2 sensor, the s.trim and l.trim reading are working correctly. I keep forgetting that after finished tuning, I usually switch back to the narrowband but kept the wideband connected to a secondary O2 bung to run the external AF display ...

No bogging down or hesitation when the knock sensor is disabled. In fact, it runs great. I'm just wondering if I should leave it disabed or try to find the root cause. Please see the attached log files.

I have finished street tuning a 93 Prelude with a stock JDM H22a and USDM P72 ECU. The engine is running very smooth and strong. The fuel and ignition tables don't seem very aggressive. However, when trying to collect a few datalogs with the knock sensor on, I noticed the ignition timing was ...

Thanks for the quick replies. I will double check the datalog and switching back to the narrowband O2 sensor to verify.

I have just installed the s300 in a P72 ECU and everything seems to be working flawlessly, except there is no reading from the S.Trim or L.Trim under the Sensors property screen.

I have connected a FJO wideband to the a-pipe and the analog output to the O2 sensor input. There is also an external A ...

I think the original dealer who sold the box and the upgrade needs to take care of the issue. It might even be possible to ask for a loaner unit while your unit is being sent in for the datalog upgrade.

7rrivera7 wrote:I was originally running a chipped PM6 (spoon). When I switched to hondata, my times dropped from 13.9 to 14.6.

I would like to see the tables on the PM6 and compare them to the PR3 - that's why.

I'm curious too. Send me the file and let me try something.

The same thing happened to me twice today during street tuning for approx. 10 miles. The engine is fully warmed up (water temp @ 190F). I'm using V3.22 and P28.

theseus824 wrote:Do you have to have Datalogging to set it using Hondalogger?

I believe so, based on the feedback from other people.

http://hondata.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=493

http://hondata.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=494

JT, thanks a lot. I found it now. My next question is where do you set the full throttle shift at? Is it the "Shift Limiter" value in the ECU tab? Also, I am assuming you must connected to the blue box in order change these values?
What is the "Rev Counter" within the settings of the Hondalogger ...

Yes, it can be set within Hondalogger. Just launch Hondalogger and select the ECU tab. Press F10 to make the connection. Then make the various changes under the RPM Limits option.

Regarding the push button method, I'm 100% sure it doesn't work using the stage 2/3/4 programming sequence. I'm ...

You don't need to drill it out. All you need to do is to cut a slit on top of the two round top screws. Then remove the screws with a flat blade screwdriver.